This is LA. You'd think someone would have already opened a veggie-focused restaurant in a glass-paneled greenhouse on a pool deck of a hip hotel in Koreatown... A place where you could eat under a swath of hanging plants, drink summery cocktails, and relax as the sun goes down over the city. Going there feels obvious, like a no-brainer, and also like the unmistakable work of Roy Choi - as if he's cornered the 'it came to me in a dream' market - and introduced yet another inventive culinary first to the City of Angels. Commissary is also the Line Hotel's rooftop icing on its lobby's cake. Down on the ground floor, POT, POT bar, and CaFe (all Roy Choi's babies) are pumping away, just as successfully as when they opened in March of this year.

It's a place where mismatching floral napkins and graphic menus are held in equal regard to grilled corn served in buttery red sauce and rhubarb-infused cocktails in plastic cups. Plainly speaking, send Boss to Commissary - preferably around sunset - for a light bite or a heavier one in disguise.

Boss won't understand the menu - it's a series of pictures with tiny letters - sort of like a game that Choi takes pleasure in watching you fumble. If patience and eyesight are an issue, just tell Boss to point to the corn, lettuce, pasta and scallops. It'll be Golden Hour and the overhanging plants will be oxygenating the air and a cocktail will be in hand and Boss will be probably be thinking something like hell, life ain't half-bad.

Commissary $$-$$$ 3515 Wilshire Blvd. Los Angeles, CA 90010 (213) 381-7411 Open 7 days / 5pm - 11pm Breakfast & lunch coming soon

Good news, you can book a reservation here.

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